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Whenever curating a list of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate familiar award-winning establishments. However, situated prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a distant area of north London.

An Surprise Recognition

The compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. The accolade has made the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I am totally surprised,” remarks a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their humble shop securing such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its former charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the cuisine, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy texture.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for below £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can cost many times that figure.

A Ethos of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at elite establishments. “I feel very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning outside its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this culinary triumph.